Hey I know this was weeks ago I haven’t been on in a while... yes you have to remove the spindle nut. You need to pry up the locking nuts where they were punched they loosen counterclock wise, they are not self locking nuts as you discribed but do need to be punched with a screwdriver or something to lock them. I have reused the spindle nuts but only a couple times. the whole drum should slide off if not there should be a small spring behind the backing plate you can manipulate to loose the shoes. if you are replacing the shoes and drums you will need to press the bearings and wheel studs out and into the new drums.
On the way to work today, my windshield wipers quit working. Got it home, took it apart and a linkage arm is ripped in half where the bushing goes. I'm not having much luck tracking down a new linkage assembly. The one from a 93+ looks about the same, I'm curious if that would work?
#1: this is where you normally top up the coolant if it's a little bit low in the plastic reservoir bottle.
But if the coolant level gets very low, so there's air in the cooling system (this will only happen if there's a big leak, or you drained the coolant for some reason, or you neglected to check coolant level in the plastic reservoir bottle #1 for a very long time), let the engine cool down, then open caps #2 and #3, pour new coolant into #3 until it's full, then add a little to #2 until it's full too.
#3 exists because it would take forever to refill the coolant using #2 only. And #2 exists because you would get an air bubble at the top of the radiator if you refilled the coolant using #3 only.
Hi I'm new to the forum and live in Brisbane Queensland.
I am presently doing up my 81 626 and I was asking if anybody knows if these chrome moulds are available? Are there any chrome moulds from other vehicles that will fit my S2 626.
Hi,im new here and I have a 1982 Mazda 626,2.0L....I was wondering what mods can I put on the car,like exhaust,brakes,clutch, etc..I just want to have fun with it and tinker with it a little bit,like maybe use it for autocross,anything would be helpful really!
Put the crank sensor on it, and it started right up. Funny there was no code. Also to route the new sensor same as orig, I would have had to take belts off. I even pulled the dip stick tube, and there was not enuf room. If I was going to do it again I would not have pulled dip stick tube
Jack Car, pull RF wheel, and plastic splash shield, pull coolant over flow tank. cut wire on CPS and remove. Route wire on new cps to the outside of pulley bracket, and ziptie to keep away from belt.
rock auto shows two different lengths, aprox 11" and 18" Get the long one.
Thanks to this forum my buddy's car is running again. I hope I have added some info to people down the road
Don't sweat the 17's. They have redeeming qualities too. You sacrifice some acceleration for better grip and higher corner speeds. You'll want to get your brakes dialed in so you get consistent friction and modulation. Late braking and faster corner entry speed will become more important. What size wheels were you running before?
We switched from 14" wheels to 17" wheels after a couple races and it was noticeable. The 17" wheels actually improved our lap times on an open track. However since we sacrificed some acceleration, race day required a little more strategy to manage traffic and maintain fast lap times.