My 1992, 626 model DX 2.2 L is leaking oil through the side apparently between the head and the block. This motor was repaired 3 yrs ago, would not expect to have any leaks in that area so soon. But is consuming like one quart every 3 to 4 weeks depending on the routine, if i go on long trips is more like two or three days. I suspect that the head bolt have lost clamping pressure, is that possible? would re torquing the head do? Would gladly appreciate some light on this.
PS: Recently replaced oil pressure sender the crankshaft and camshaft seals.
I recently got a 1996 Mazda 626 on the cheap, and it's got some quirks I'm trying to track down.
When you first start it in the morning, the car idles at 2k until it gets to temperature, where it settles down at 800 RPM. It also shifts a bit hard when cold, and the first time it hits 25 mph after a cold start, the revs jump up to 5k before the car shifts and continues forward (the car has to sit for 5 hours or so before it's reproducible)
I haven't checked much other than fluid levels so far, to make sure the transmission wasn't running dry or something. I've repaired all my vehicles in the past, but as they've been all motorcycles, I'm not entirely sure where I should start. I'm hoping the high idle is just a vacuum leak somewhere, but I've heard some cars idle high when cold by design, which sounds really odd.
I can only suggest check over every fuse. Edit: I would try and narrow down whether it's spark or fuel. Plug removed and place near the engine and look for spark. Or starting fluid. So you can decide the course of action determining why one of those is missing.
Sorry for this being a Ford Probe and not a mazda - But I think there pretty much the same? Feel free to delete if I'm wrong. Im going bonkers and any help is greatly appreciated:
Hey guys,pulling my hair out. Everything was running fine apart from the ABS light was on. Followed the advice for getting the ABS error codes and now the car wont start. The engine turns over but nothing electronic seems to happen. Checked the battery - thats fine. A few other points:- We reset the ECU whilst getting the codes (Disconnected the negative terminal of the battery and held down the brake pedal for 5 minutes.) - We've checked all the fuses and they are all fine.- I'm pretty sure we shorted the right boxes - TBS and GND - but is it possible we bridged the wrong ones. Would this cause serious damage, and how could we find out if this is what we've done?Any ideas are greatly appreciated as I'm not even sure where to start here. The immobiliser acts normal - Slow blinking until the key fob is pressed, then a solid blink and then its out.
I was able to check one out. Completely different MAF sensor. So I was able to get mine to seal by screwing the two halves together with wood screws, which work better in plastic than sheetmetal screws. Only problem is that the entire assembly needs to come out in order to get to the filter. Oh well.
That little more is the throttle cable.
You will have to take it off to fully remove the throttle body.
There's an easy way to do it. Push the (gear) slide that the little cable is connected to down
Grab the cable and pull it under and around and towards the drivers side of the car. It won't move far.
There is a little pin that it's connected to, push that pin out and the cable will pop right off.
It will probably take a few tries for you to get it